Campos de Futebol - Day 16

Soccer Fields

Vila Chã - Fão (19.3 miles) 

I was the first one to leave the albergue this morning around 8 am. The host couldn't believe I was leaving so early without having a coffee or something to eat. Next door to the albergue was a municipal soccer field, the first of many soccer fields today!

I walked along the beach until I had to turn back to the busy roads near Areia and Azurara. I had a quick breakfast at a café. I enjoyed a banana nut muffin and a chocolate milk while watching the interactions of the local people coming in for their daily bread and coffee. As I walked through Azurara, I stopped to see the Igreja Matriz. Construction of this church began in 1502. They had a statue and signs celebrating Serafim Gonçalves das Neves, a local religious leader who was born in Azurara in 1868 and died there in 1972 after more than 70 years of service for the church.

I then confusingly walked through Vila do Conde. I was lost and started heading for the coast, only to realize that I needed to follow the route through the city as well as the next, Póvoa de Varzim, before returning to the coast. I passed another soccer field along the way. This one hosts Varzim Sport Club, a minor league professional team.

Upon returning to the coast and boardwalks, I met Ondrej from the Czech Republic. We walked and talked together a couple of times today. I enjoyed being back along the water and saw several new birds today. The rains came off and on after 1 pm and I gave up trying to keep my feet dry.

There was an old windmill near Aguçadoura, along with a soccer field and golf course. There was one more soccer field in Apúlia. My feet were getting tired by this point and I knew I wasn't going to make it to Esposende. I started noticing signs posted for a hostel in Fão that was closer and I decided to go there. As I came into the city limits of Fão, I passed by yet another soccer field.

The hostel was easy to find and I was impressed by the interior. It felt more like a home than a hostel. The hostess was incredibly kind and welcoming. She opened The Spot Hostel Ofir in 2020 and didn't have a great start. This has been her first year of regular business and the comments written in a book by previous guests emphasize what a wonderful place this is. Xenia joined me at the hostel and then there were two Portuguese people just on vacation staying there. They are not doing the Caminho. We each had our own rooms and the hostess even did our laundry for us.

She recommended we eat at Café Sport which opened at 7 pm. Xenia and I walked down there and found it to be run by a very nice man and his family. They had old photographs of the town and his Vespa moped which was currently on display in the corner of the restaurant. I ordered the Portuguese Feijoada, and it was very similar to the microwave feijoada I had in Águeda. After dinner, the owner stamped our Credencials and gave us each a painted pebble to take with us. Him and his wife make them for pilgrims going to Santiago. What a clever gift and a wonderful way to remember such an amazing stop along my way!

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