Traveling Through Time
Mougás - Baiona (9.6 miles)
Last night was so good for sleeping! I had my own room and it was very dark. It was so comfortable that I almost didn't want to get up. Because of the time change in Spain, I planned to leave after 8:30 am when the sun would be coming up. I actually left around 9 am. The coast line continued to fascinate me the further north I went. The rocky hills above the coast were impressive to see. I don't remember the hills looking like this in Portugal, but that might be because I couldn't see them due to the low hanging clouds.
I wanted to take the longer route around Cape Silleiro, however it would have been on the yellow bike lane near the busy highway. I also didn't realize I was on the mountain pass route until after I was already part way up (It is really more of a hill than a mountain!). I am glad I ended up on that path anyway. The picturesque view from above made me stop and linger longer to take it all in. I don't get enough ocean views living in the interior of the United States. This one was special and might be the best view so far on my journey.
Continuing over the mountain pass, I noticed that ruts had been carved into the rocks. They reminded me of the ruts I have seen carved into stone by the wagons along the Oregon and Mormon Pioneer Trails. Seeing this feature made me ponder the age of this path I am on and how many horse drawn wagons have traveled this way in the last few centuries.
Before I knew it, I was entering the historic seaport community of Baiona. I met with Yeji and Xenia for lunch at a café along the ocean front. After eating, we played a couple rounds of pool and I was definitely feeling rusty. I haven't played much since my days at Kike's Restaurant in Costa Rica or the church Institute building in Columbus, Ohio.
We parted ways from here as the girls continued onward to different towns. I stayed behind to explore Baiona. While planning my Caminho trip, I looked at this place on the map and felt like I wanted to stay here for a night. I'm not sure why because I knew nothing about Baiona. It was siesta time, so I first checked into the albergue and took a shower. Around 4 pm, I went to the docks and found the Pinta caravel replica. On the 1st of March 1493, Captain Martin Alonso Pinzón moored here after returning from their transatlantic voyage with Christopher Columbus. Pinzón actually reached Spain before Columbus and brought news of their discovery. I enjoyed walking around the ship and thinking about what life must have been like aboard it. I imagined sleeping in hammocks strung up below deck among the stores of provisions or standing on deck with its side to side rocking.
Next, I explored the Monterreal Fortress. Walking along the crenellated walls, I couldn't help but wonder how many men stood on these walls in defense of this fortified position. There's not much remaining on the interior of the fortress, but the outer walls seem to be enduring the passage of time.
There were not many restaurants open tonight, so I ended up on the oceanfront in an expensive one called the Mosquito. It sure bit me in the wallet! I ordered the Solomillo la Pimienta o Roquefort, a sirloin steak covered in melted Roquefort cheese. It wasn't the cheapest meal on the menu, but compared to the majority of the menu items, it was cheap. I enjoyed every bite and felt that it was worth the price.
As I ate in this oceanfront building, I noticed it had been remodeled and I could see where they had patched into the rock walls some electrical wires for the lights. I wondered how old the building must be and if Pinzón, Columbus, or other historical figures had ever been right where I was sitting. Visiting Baiona was like traveling through time. From the well worn wagon trail in the mountains to the fort and ship replica, I was constantly thinking about life in earlier times. There is so much history and I am glad I took the time to stop and see it, even if I didn't walk very far today. It was a very short walking day, but hopefully I will be well rested for tomorrow!
Check out Viajando no Tempo - Day 20 on Relive! https://www.relive.cc/view/vPOp3ZW21Ev
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