A Costa Espanhol - Day 19

The Spanish Coast 

Caminha - Mougás (19.0 miles) 

Just a few blocks away from the hostel were several boat taxis in Caminha. I found it easier than expected to find someone willing to take us across the river. Normally the ferry is running every hour during the day, except it is out of commission this year. A couple from Vancouver joined us and we zipped across the river into Spain. The boat taxi dropped us off on a stone pier with no one around. It seems weird crossing borders without some form of security. In Central America, I always had to pass border security and have my bags scanned when moving between countries. I guess I won't get a Spain stamp in my passport.

After making landfall, I headed the long way around the beach to A Guarda. It was such a cool way and I found some new bird species! As I approached A Guarda, I noticed several people in wetsuits picking stuff off the rocks down below. One of them was returning to his car and I asked what they were collecting. During low tide they pry barnacles off the rocks and sell them to restaurants. He told me they are called percebes, which is a type of barnacle, and that they are an expensive delicacy. I don't know if I will be eating at the types of restaurants he sells them to.

Shortly afterwards, the rain started coming down. I jumped into the first café and found Xenia already inside. More pilgrims arrived and it was a loud and raucous crowd during the downpour. One of the pilgrims who joined us was Isabel, a tall German girl from the hostel last night. It was also her birthday yesterday! When the rains slowed down, I ran a couple of errands in A Guarda and then went back to following the yellow arrows up the coast. I saw more birds and beautiful scenery while the sun was out! While walking near the highways, I had a wide yellow lane for cyclists and pedestrians. I passed Isabel walking barefoot up this road. She seemed happy to do so, but I prefer keeping my shoes on.

A little further on, I caught up with Yeji. We walked together until Oia, where I hoped to get a bite to eat at a café/restaurant. Unfortunately, this is Spain and they take an afternoon siesta. The restaurants were closed until 8 pm. I ate the last of the peanuts I had in my pack and then I noticed a bar across the street. I went in and asked if they had bread or anything to eat. The bartender said she just had chips and candy, then I noticed the packages of doughnuts on a shelf behind her. They had pre-packaged glazed doughnuts (x2) for £1.50. They were super good doughnuts, maybe just because I was hungry.

When I walked out of the bar, I saw Xenia had just passed by. We walked together into Mougás and caught up to Yeji along the way. This area is very commercialized for the Camino de Santiago. Every hotel, restaurant, and even some houses are marketing towards pilgrims. I passed many souvenir shops and advertisements for Camino paraphernalia. Other than all that, there was a waterfall far away on the mountain above town. Not much else to be seen. The three of us met one other person at the albergue, a woman from Colorado. We almost had one room for each person and I had the men's restroom all to myself. We all sat outside the albergue on a bench and watched the sun set over the ocean. Around 8 pm we moved next door and ate dinner. The portions were huge! I had Zorza, which is supposedly a traditional Galician pork dish, and french fries. Based on the coloration, you would think the meat had more flavor but it was really just salty. I wish there had been more to the plate, maybe a small side salad instead of just meat and fries. From what I have heard, this is a typical pilgrim meal in Spain. Hopefully I find better food tomorrow!

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