No Meio do Caminho - Day 13

Halfway There

Albergaria-a-Nova - Souto Redondo (20.2 miles) 

Another early morning for everyone in the albergue. I started hearing noises at 6 am as people were beginning to move about, opening doors, turning on hallway lights, and packing bags. I stayed in bed as long as I could before jumping up and getting ready. I wasn't the last one to leave, but I easily caught up with everyone who had left before me. There was already a good amount of light for me to see my way along the path of yellow arrows and out of Albergaria-a-Nova.

Today's walk was almost entirely through residencial and commercial areas. Some of the trail was even on the old railway line. There were almost no tracts of wild nature or farmland to be seen, yet it was still enjoyable. I found the 5 Italians at a café and decided to stop and try to have a conversation with them. I purchased some peach juice and bananas while we spoke of our planned destinations for today. Raquel, the café worker, took a group photo of us before I left. Today might be the last time I see them on the Caminho. They are taking the central route from Porto and I will be following the coastal route.

Next, I passed by the 18th Century courthouse and town hall in Bemposta. I'm sure there is some fascinating history regarding these places, but I don't feel like I have the time to stop and explore each and every old building I pass by.

I found Ilaria with a new German girl in Oliveira de Azeméis and we walked together until Vila de Cucujães. During that time of walking and talking Spanish together, we passed the Igreja Matriz. This point, I believe, is the halfway point between Lisbon and Santiago. I am halfway there!

Following the path, we then crossed the Ul River on the Ponte do Salgueiro, a medieval bridge from the 14th century. The taller Italian caught up to us and we walked about a mile together. While we were taking a break in the shade, the rest of the Italians appeared from around the corner and joined us. Ilaria and the German girl decided to find a place to eat lunch.

The Italians then followed me into São João da Madeira. This city was big and we passed a large shopping complex on 8th avenue. I left my Italian acquaintances at the city center and continued on for another 4 miles or so.

As I reached the edge of the city, I stopped for lunch. After a quick glance at the menu, I decided to try the cachorro normal. Just a simple hot dog for £3. I thought wrong. The waitress brought me a ham and cheese sandwich pressed on a grill like a panini. Inside was a long hot dog split in half. They sure like ham and cheese sandwiches here in Portugal! The ham is also different from back home. It is still pinkish in color, but tastes more like turkey lunch meat. From Arrifana, I could look out west and see the ocean along with dark storm clouds coming my way.

Hurrying towards Souto Redondo, I slipped on my pancho just before the rain came. Thankfully, it didn't rain very hard until after I was safe in my private hostel room for the night. The restaurant is connected to the hostel, so I don't need to go outside again.

I am not the only pilgrim staying here tonight. There is a group of 9 men heading south to Fatima together. They were so loud when they checked into the hostel and even louder during dinner when they had a little wine to drink. They thought I was from Spain. It was a big shock when I told them I was from the United States. They didn't know Americans knew how to speak multiple languages. I was asked for maybe the third time on this trip if I am from New York. I don't know why that is their go to location for someone from the US. How many New Yorkers come to Portugal? Dinner consisted of two courses. First was Canja de Galinha, a traditional chicken broth, followed by beef spaghetti. It was great food! The rain is really coming down tonight. Hopefully by tomorrow I will be in Porto!

Check out No Meio do Caminho - Day 13 on Relive! https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvE3jp38w6