Um Dia Difícil - Day 21

A Hard Day 

Baiona - Vigo (18.0 miles) 

This was honestly the hardest day for me on the Caminho and I really struggled trying to maintain a positive attitude. It started last night when some disrespectful people came back late to the albergue. It was after midnight and they were talking and turning on lights. I had seen some of these people while I was having dinner, but I don't know what kept them out so much later than me. They were also the same people whose alarms started going off at 6 am. Because of the time change, the sun doesn't come up until closer to 9 am, so I don't know why people want to be up long before the sun. With all of the shuffling around, packing bags, headlights waving around and people coming and going to the bathroom, I decided to leave early as well. There was no chance of falling back asleep and I figured I could shoot for a longer day to make up for the short day yesterday and get some separation from these insufferable pilgrims. I walked about 2.5 miles in the rain before stopping at a café for something to eat. I'm glad I stopped when I did because the rains really came down while I was inside. The Spanish news was on and I saw a report about the Red Bull Rampage happening in Southern Utah! It has grown into an international event and there were some Spanish riders competing. I still remember the day my grandfather took me up there to watch it. That must be more than 15 years ago now.

The signs for the Caminho had been good up till now. I made a wrong turn somewhere and eventually realized that there were no more arrows. I stopped and checked my guidebook and compared it to Google Maps. I knew I needed to cross the Rio Miñor on the old roman Ponte da Ramallosa. Using my phone I mapped the shortest way there. On my way, an older man tried telling me that I must go back to get to the Caminho route. I told him I just wanted to get to the bridge and asked if the road I was on would take me there. He wasn't sure and thought about it for a moment then decided, yeah it would take me there. I appreciate his willingness to help, but I had already figured out where to go.

Later on I came across 3 separate junctions, one after the other, that each had arrows going in opposing directions. I was so confused and hoped I had made the right choice each time. I kept seeing yellow arrows ahead, so I must have picked the right path. I stopped in another café for a second breakfast. This one was decorated for Halloween. Many places seem to have gone all in on decorations this year. Some are typical family-friendly decorations, whereas others were grim and terrifying. I saw a mannequin dressed to look like a dead body covered in blood. It was chained to the door of a hair salon and was laying on the sidewalk out front. I had to look twice before realizing it wasn't a real person. My friends were messaging in the group chat and I found out they were taking a coastal route after the bridge and I was heading up a mountain route into Vigo. This way was hard, especially the rough and rocky descent. I tweaked my right knee again coming downhill and it hurt the rest of the day. I was getting very concerned by how much pain I was in. I had no idea there was a different, easier, route into the city. My guidebook only mentioned a longer mountain route to an albergue that skipped Vigo almost entirely. I had not come to that turn off yet, so I knew I wasn't on that route.

Thankfully, it quit raining a little before 1 pm. I continued following the arrows and the route I was on, until I couldn't anymore. The stone monument, which gives directions and indicates the remaining distance to Santiago, had been crossed out with yellow spray paint and a new arrow pointing in the other direction. That street also had a new yellow arrow painted on a street pole. It also had a yellow X. As I learned on day 1, don't follow the X's. Someone had mentioned to me earlier that the route through Vigo was either currently or recently changed to improve the walking conditions. Once again, I was left feeling very confused and annoyed with the quality of the Caminho markings today. I settled for mapping my way directly across the city to the hostel.

Vigo is a big city, so walking across it took a long time. I also can't stand being in the cities. The constant noise and traffic is terrible. People also don't seem as friendly. I had a challenging time finding a café that served anything other than beer or expresso coffee shots. It was getting close to siesta time and I wanted something to eat. I tried several places before settling in one that had strawberry banana milkshakes advertised on their window. They tried selling me the Menu of the Day, which consisted of two plates of food (2 possible options per plate), a drink, and the standard coffee to finish the meal for only £11. I wasn't sure what the plate or entree options were and a woman in the café brought her husband over to help translate for me. He wasn't very helpful, because he just explained what I already understood. He asked me if I knew what a particular dish was and I said no. Rather than explain it to me, he kept talking with the waitress. I was so confused and only wanted something small to eat and a milkshake. I asked if I could just have one plate and the waitress said sure, one plate of food (any of the 4 mysterious options), and a drink for £11. Unsatisfied with the menu options and the unsolicited translation help, I noticed there were some sweet croissants on display with the dessert cakes. I told them I would just have a croissant and milkshake. That was the end of that and I was happy to eat and leave as soon as I could because the owner of the café was starting an argument with the waitress over her work ethic and time off requests. My struggles today did not end there. After limping my way through the city, I found the hostel I planned on sleeping at was closed. There were no hours or phone numbers posted. I went a couple blocks over and tried a hotel that was far too expensive and another hostel that was supposedly full. I called another place before walking there and no one answered. I found it on Booking.com and made a reservation. On my way over, a man tried giving me directions to the Caminho route. He didn't know where I was going and thought I had lost the way. I appreciate his kindness in offering assistance, but I didn't need to find the Caminho. I was just going to find a bed. In 30 minutes from the time I made the reservation, I was knocking on the door to the hostel. The hostess had no idea I was coming, but let me in and set me up in a private room. It was so nice to be showered and resting in a quiet room all to myself after such a hard day.

I ate dinner alone at a nice restaurant in the shopping mall. There were no other customers there probably because it was too early for dinner or everyone was at either McDonald's, Burger King, Taco Bell, KFC, or Popeyes which were all next door. I guess I wasn't completely alone. A pigeon had wandered inside the restaurant and was picking at crumbs on the floor. It was a hard day, but I finished it with a great meal and ice cream for dessert. Hopefully tomorrow will be better and I can get out of this city!

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